Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Venice: Getting Robbed

“City of Love Alone”

Instructions for the use of this short story: 1. Play the music. 2. Start to read. 3. Get lost in the narrative. 4. Comment and repeat.






     The City of Love tastes lonely alone. For a week I sat in cafes and drank, alternating between the bitter bite of espresso and the sensual bubbles of Proseco that were beginning to taste like failure. The honeystick stink of happy couples wafted through the air inconsiderately and when I wrinkled my nose at one particularly soul-crushing duo, they asked me in slow English if I would take their picture. Yes, let’s lock this moment in; you’re going to need it in about ten years when you’re fat and she’s bored. Or when you’re bored and she’s fat. I don’t care which. One of you is going to be bored and the other fat and good luck after that.

     My god, what’s wrong with me?

     I took the picture and handed them the camera back, more than a little disgusted with my running monologue.

     Venice makes you want a man like no other city.

     I had one once but he left me standing in six inches of slimy water. A different one found me a few days later but it was a whole weird thing. I don’t really want to talk about it.

     Needing a change of scenery, I boarded a water taxi, tired of that slippery romantic word—gondola—unrolling like a condom on my tongue. It took me where it wanted to.

     I disembarked and walked with a knowing stride through the twilight of the city. Where was I walking? Into the neon flame, as always, attracted by the presence of alcohol, drawn into the grungy underbelly of the city.

      Inside, the low light did nothing to hide the black-fire eyes of a man I’d seen before. The long, thin cut of his trousers hugged the length of his long, thin legs. I wanted to share clothes with that man; slip in alongside.

     I ordered a scotch and leaned dangerously far over the lip of the bar. It was here that he noticed me.

     Many of my friends would punch a man in the face for that look; that unbroken stare that climbs up one leg and down the other; that gaze that rolls over the hill of my hip before heading north and wandering along the edge of the low cut at the top of my unlucky green dress.

     But I kept my profile to him, allowing only a slight smile to ribbon-curl the corners of my mouth before raising the glass and taking in the musky sensuality of a good drink.

     Uninhibited, unlike his American cousins, he sauntered over, took my free hand and led me, drink and all, onto the dance floor.

     I wanted to complain: I don’t know how to dance, not with a man. Where I come from, the men line up along the walls and watch, leaving the women to fend for themselves, like so much else in American romance.

     He placed a soft hand just above my hip and under his expert lead, I could follow. No words passed between us, only movement and the occasional electric brush of skin. He leaned in close to me and I could feel his warm breath in my ear before I heard the words.

     “A beautiful woman should never have to drink alone,” he said.

     At least, that’s what I think he said. I don’t speak Italian.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Venice: Getting Hungry?


“A beautiful woman should never have to eat alone,” purred the Italian man, his long fingers spread out against the surface of my table so close they nearly singed my skin. He paused here for a moment, his eyes lasers burning right through me.
My breath quickened; I might be melting under this stare.  
Finally he took a long breath in, patted my table twice and departed for a more divine locale. With his bronzed skin and black-fire eyes, he could have Mercury.
At least, this is what I imagine he said to me. He could have said, “This table is reserved,” or, “That book sucks, you should not be reading it.” There’s no way to be sure; I don’t speak Italian.
“American?” asked a harsh voice attached to a squirrely man whose head leaned in too close to me. He was eying the cover of my book.
“Uh, yes.”
“Me, too,” he needlessly informed, scraping a chair across the stone walkway and seating himself at my table, “Are you waiting for someone?”
I had the look of someone who wasn’t. “No.”
He spoke in a rapid-fire-monotone that was impossible to follow; his words were a sloppy car crash. “Wow. Really? You’re here by yourself? Doesn’t that bother you, being here alone? Isn’t it weird being in another country and not having anyone to talk to? Why are you by yourself?”
I lowered my book cautiously, leaving one finger tucked inside to mark my place: the unmistakable signal that this was not to be a long conversation. “It doesn’t bother me, I travel alone quite frequently. I actually came here with a friend, but he’s gone home now and I’m staying on.”
“Wow. That would be so hard, being alone in a foreign country.”
I shrugged and flashed my teeth at him, more snarl than smile. “I like to be alone. I work alone.”
“Man. I couldn’t do that. I’m here with my brothers and their wives but they went somewhere for the day so I’m here now but they’ll be back tomorrow and then we’re going to Saint Mark’s Square. I want to see the church. I’ve heard it’s beautiful.”
“It’s tacky. I think Mark Twain described it as a big beetle-bug with its legs sticking up in the air. But you should definitely go see it.”
“Beautiful. So, what brings you to Italy?”
The waiter drifted by with an extra glass and poured this man a drink out of my bottle of Pinot Grigio. He was camping, right here at my table, squatting on my meal, drinking from my wine. Who was this man?
“I’m a travel writer,” I mumbled, practically snatching the bottle from the waiter and pouring my own glass so tippy-top full that I had to siphon a bit off before I could raise it to my lips.
“Cool. That’s cool.” He took a sip of his wine—my wine—made a face like a baboon and coughed all over the table. “What is this? This isn’t very good. What are you drinking? I thought they made good wine here. You know, what I like? White Zinfandel.”
This was neither the time nor the place to educate him about the complex bouquet that is a proper old-vine zin and the sugar juice that is its pink counterpart. Do not say it. “That’s not wine, that’s juice.”
“Really good stuff.” He drank again, scrunched up his nose again and coughed out my wine again.
“Antipasti,” announced the waiter, lowering the tray of baby Adriatic sole to the table and placing a small white plate in front of each of us.
“Wow. That looks amazing. The food here is really good. Do you mind?” He didn’t wait on a response; he just dove in, headfirst.
I wished the water were shallower.
“So, you’re a writer?”
“Um-hm.”
“And you write about travel.”
“Yup.”
“Would I have heard of you?”
“Possibly.”
With tiny fish spilling out the sides of his mouth, he cocked his head, scrutinizing me diagonally as if I might be more famous askew. He asked, “What’s your name?”
“Crystal Beran.”
“Baron like with kings and stuff?”
“Uh, no.” It was a common enough question; I couldn’t blame him for asking. “It’s spelled B-E-R-A-N and it’s Czech for ram, like a male sheep.”
“Huh. Czech. Are you Czech?”
Is that a real question? “Yes.”
“What’s that, like, Russian?”
I stopped mid bite, stuck in place with a tiny spectacularly seasoned fish halfway off my fork and into my mouth. I examined him, this madman whose brothers and sisters-in-law had abandoned him here at my dinner table. When he manifested no sign of jesting, I brought the fish the rest of the way into my mouth and chewed carefully before answering, “No, it’s Czech.”
“But, that’s like, Russia.”
“No. It’s its own country. It’s called the Czech Republic.”
“But that’s Russia.”
“It was occupied by Russia for a while, but it’s its own country.”
He shook his head at me like I was fooling him and stole the last of my fish. “My family’s from Germany and Ireland and Scotland and England and Wales.”
I refilled my wine.
“Risotto.”
The rice had been dyed black with cuttlefish ink, a black that would stick to your tongue and the backs of your teeth for the rest of the day. It was the kind of thing that was cute shared with a best friend or a lover and horrible shared with a complete stranger who’d just told me my origins were imaginary.
“How can you drink that wine?” he asked at last, his teeth already black.
“It’s one of my favorites.”
“It’s not very good. This is awesome though. How do they make it black?”
“Ink.”
He stopped eating. “Ink?”
“Yes, ink.”
“Like from a pen?”
“No, from a cuttlefish.”
“It’s from a fish? That’s disgusting.” Using the full length of his arm, he slid the bowl slowly away from him, frowning horribly at the rice.
I ate on, hoping with enough fish ink on my breath I might be granted a similar disgust. Maybe he would push himself away from my table in that same long, smooth motion.
He watched me eat for a few minutes, which I did quite cheerfully, taking long drags of my horrible wine between bites.
“So, when did you get here?”
“Last Thursday.” I signaled to the waiter to bring me another bottle and slid my book back and forth across the table impatiently.
“Wow. So you were here on Sunday. Cool. How was Saint Mark’s?”
“It looked like a beetle-bug.” Was I in a time warp?
“No,” he chided, wagging a pretentious finger at me, “How was the service?”
“What service?”
“The church service, silly. How was church? I’m really looking forward to going tomorrow.”
“I have no idea.”
“You didn’t go to church?”
“No.”
“Why not?”
“Seriously? Are you seriously asking me that? I’m not Christian.”
By then the main course had arrived: whole fish grilled a stunning caramel color, heads intact, little fish lips puckering up. My friend stopped staring at their faces and turned his full attention to me; it was the first time. As he soaked in the abominable truth about me, his eyes bulged and his lips parted slightly in his best impersonation of my dinner.
 The question was almost too horrible to ask. “Then what are you?”
 “My own thing; mostly Buddhist, I guess.” I may as well have told him I was a space alien or Bigfoot.
I used the silence to pluck an eye out of one of my fish and popped it into my mouth.
He choked on the air. “Have you heard of Our Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ?”
I shook my head, not because I hadn’t, but because I was having trouble believing that this was a real conversation.
“You’re going to Hell, you know.”
“I’m going to Bali.”
My wine arrived. I plucked the cork out with my teeth and sucked the booze right out of the bottle, barely a human being.
At least he left me to enjoy my tiramisu in peace.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Venice: Getting Lost

The thing I like most about Venice is that she shows no mercy to the unadventurous. Step across the threshold of the city and you have no choice but to abandon the illusion that you might know where you are. Streets and canals wind across each other in a dizzy Pollock painting that no cartographer has yet to translate into a map of any accuracy. There is no memorization of these streets, for Venice is a living organism who cannot sit still. You think you know her, but she shifts in her restless sleep, leaving you agape on the shore, staring across the murky water at a pharmacy that used to be your favorite trattoria. Did it close down, or are you lost again, on the wrong Frezzaria? Venice is a city that can be felt, but never known.
It was high tide.
San Marco Square stayed one step ahead of me, thwarting my every attempt to track it's progression through the maze of illegible street signs and watery dead-ends. I chased it through the city, judging its path by the pigeons it shedded as it ran. Morgan, a friend from L.A. who I'd carted along, sought the plaza with his nose pressed firmly down (dangerously close to the ground) into the map. He had yet to look up today.
The birds thickened in the sky, like a coming storm, an omen of Marco. Below us, the cobblestones were beginning to drown in the briny tide. We'd have to forge the newborn canal. I shuddered; I needed a hot shower just looking at the water.
But I'd been through worse. What's a little Venetian scum after that river I fell into in Botswana? What's the smell of canal after the whale I stumbled across, half eaten by sharks, half melted by a tropical Kiribati sun? Morgan had braved the wild streets of East Hollywood; surely he could handle a few drops of misplaced Mediterranean.
I followed the birds across the water, clacking carefully over in my three-inch heels. They were not lofty enough to keep me dry and the canal sucked up against my ankles, licking its oily scent onto my skin, marking me as its own, its precious.
Morgon's eyes rose above the edge of the map as if returning from a dream. Beads of sweat collected on his forehead; his pupils narrowed to pinpricks of darkness.
Still in the water, I turned to him, "Come on," but he shuffled backwards a step away from me. Did the word, "Unclean," creep across his lips?
"Morgan." I kept my voice soft.
He was trapped somewhere under the water's rainbow surface, his eyes full with the most beautiful colors, previously unknown to nature: siren's-conch-indigo, viscous-violet, radium-223-chartruese. They stuck on the skin I'd left too exposed by these strappy-straps.
"I'm not crossing that," he said at last, still staring wide-eyed-down, never meeting my gaze.
Damply, I pleaded, "This is the way." From my vantage I could see the gaudy gold shimmer of the plaza. I'd never lost a traveling companion before the fourth day before. This would not be good press.
"No," he repeated, resolute, "I don't care."
I looked back at him with my sad-eyes face, but the distortion reflected back to him was monstrous and not endearing.
"I am not walking through that." He punched the not a little hard and frightened a few misplaced pigeons back into the sky.
I joined them on the other side, looking back across the sea to where Morgan stood, smaller, distant. "Fine, meet me back at Calle de Montello at five. At the trattoria across from the hotel, okay?"
He nodded slightly, seemed to want to spit at the canal. "You ruined your shoes," was all he said. I never saw him again.
That evening I found myself back on Calle de Montello, sitting on a terrace at a trattoria I'd never seen before, half a bottle of Proseco glistening in the last light of day. I lifted my glass again, listening to the bad news told by my new friend Benigno.
"You're thinking of the other Calle de Montello. It isn't here, bella," he said, sympathetically refilling my glass. "You must go back, to the other side of the city."
But I sat still and soaked in the long rays of sun and the dizzy mess that was Venice. Benigno and his sparkly wine whispered calm against the American get-up-and-go schedule-brain I'd brought with me, telling me against all my judgment that everything was okay.
Sure I was lost, sure Morgan would never speak to me again, but I was lost in the heart of Venice, on a sun washed hillside, surrounded by good wine, good food, and Italian men. Beautiful Italian men.
"Forget it," I answered, "No need to go searching for nothing when everything is right here. I think I'll stay."
"How many nights?"
I looked out across the city where Venetian stars sparkled to life both above and below us, and, clinking my glass against Benigno's, replied, "Just one."






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